Colored Grout and New Tile Create Fresh Bathroom Look

New tile and colored grout can give a small, out-of-date bathroom a fresh new look.

Leslie Davis of Paper Daisy Design has a keen eye for design and a love for all things DIY. Leslie knows all about laying tile and applying grout, too.

She shares with us how she created a totally gorgeous bathroom for her teen-aged daughter. Here's Leslie's thorough tutorial for a full bathroom makeover.

Bathroom Makeover for a Teen

Our daughter's bathroom was previously lacking in function and style, but with the help of today's modern tile options the space is now hip and fresh, perfectly fitting for a modern teenager.

Above, you see the bathroom as we found it when we moved here two years ago.

While the room is not small, it was dark, drab and dysfunctional. Soon after we moved in we relocated the pedestal sink to a half bath downstairs, installed a vanity, painted the walls white and called it done, at least functionally.

But it still had not reached it's full potential, the old tile was tired and the room still felt dated.

The New Bathroom

Here is the bathroom with its new look. It's amazing what tile and the new colored grout can do for a space.

The hexagon tiles by Merola Tile may seem like an super modern choice, but the pattern I designed using a light matte gray and a darker, glossy gray tile was inspired by a historic restoration of Brooklyn brownstone.

And of course subway tile is a classic, clean choice for any space. Here, laying the Jeffrey Court Allegro flat 3 x 12-in. tiles in a vertical orientation, literally upturns the traditional look.

The gray grout, in Delorean Gray by Fusion Pro, provides a hint of contrast while still keeping the space a calm and relaxing retreat. Today's teenagers need a calming retreat too, don't you think?

OK, so let's see how this all happened.

The Tile Tutorial

Tools and Materials

• Delorean Gray by Fusion Pro,


• Jeffrey Court Allegro flat 3 x 12-in. tiles


• Mesh seam tape


• Schluter Kerdi System


• Cement board


• V-notched trowel


• Kerdi-Shower Kit


• Tile spacers

Step 1

We began by removing the cultured marble surround. And when I say "we" I mean my husband. He loves, absolutely loves demo. I just step back and let him do his thing when it comes to this step.

Using a crow bar and hammer he removed the old tile and mortar board. Here's a tip: If the subfloor under the tile is mortar board subfloor, try and get under the mortar board to help release the tiles and subfloor together.

The next step was to run a blade along the tub surround caulk lines before removing to avoid damage to the drywall underneath.

Step 2

After having great success with the Schluter Kerdi System in a previous project, we were happy to use it again. It is quite easy to install and can be applied directly to the drywall. In our master bathroom shower, we removed the drywall and reconfigured the shower using cement board, which is an option with Kerdi, but the preferred and actually easier method is to simply hang it over drywall.

Using unmodified thin-set and a V-notched trowel, apply fairly fluid mortar to the walls and hang the sections of Kerdi membrane. This process is not unlike hanging wallpaper, but unlike flimsy wallpaper, the membrane is very easy to handle. I actually prefer to use a wallpaper smoothing tool to push the Kerdi into the thin-set.

In the photo above, you can see there was a fairly rough horizontal seam between two sheets of drywall. I applied mesh seam tape and covered the seam with mortar. The tape just helps float out the imperfections. This is the time to fix any areas that are out of level. All seams and corners are covered with the Kerdi Band to create a water tight seal.

Step 3

To begin tiling, we hung level 1 x 2's measured exactly the height of the tile up from the tub, plus 2-times the height of tile spacers. We used 1/8 -in. spacers so the measurement was 1/4 in. plus the length of the tile.

This is the preferred method to starting the tile on the top of the tub. While our tub was actually level, there were places where the tub and drywall didn't match up consistently around the lip of the tub.

Using a square 1/4 x 1/4 -in. trowel, spread the unmodified thin-set onto the membrane and set the tiles using 1/8 -in. tile spacers.

I find it very helpful to run a scraper or putty knife along the bottom row of tiles, or in this case, the level board. This helps prevent seepage between the tile joints.

Continue setting the tiles, checking for level as you go. This half-offset pattern was easy to do and went particularly fast for subway tile because a full 12-in. area was covered with each row. If you plan your design right, you can avoid cutting tiles for more than half the corners.

Step 4

To create a water tight project, all meeting places between plumbing and the Kerdi membrane need to be sealed with either waterproofing caulk or special Kerdi pipe seals and valve seals.

Step 5

Once all the shower tiles were set, it was time to work on the floor. To prep the subfloor for tile I used the Schluter Systems Ditra uncoupling underlayment.

The beauty of this product is that it is easy to install, provides exceptional support and reduces movement stress between the floor and the tile thereby reducing the chance of cracking, as well as making it water-proof.

The sheets are pre-cut to fit the room and applied in various manors depending on your subfloor. In our case, the floor was plywood, so I used modified thin-set, spreading it evenly with a V-notched trowel. The mortar should be mixed to a very fluid consistency.

Be sure to check with the detailed information booklet provided for the proper materials to use with your subfloor.

Once the Ditra is set on the mortar, simply smooth the membrane down with a wooden float.

Step 6

Now I was ready to set the hexagon tiles! But first, I did a bit of a dry run of the pattern to be sure the placement was optimal.

Then I marked the center of the room in three spots and then projected a level line using a laser level on the center of floor to set my tiles from.

For the horizontal line, I started at the tub which was square to the room.

To set tiles on the Ditra membrane begin by filling the "waffles" with mortar. Then, apply additional mortar on top. I like to use a bucket scoop to do this. Then drag your trowel, as you would normally to set the tiles.

Half of the tiles were cut in center of the hexagon to achieve starting edge of the pattern. From there it was not unlike laying square tiles.

Except, they are not "square." Did you catch that obvious point? Installing hexagon tiles are probably not an ideal beginner tile project, even with the many tiling projects under my belt I found this tile to be a bit challenging. Doable? Most definitely! Worth a little extra attention to detail? Absolutely. The unique hexagon design and pattern elevates the space and makes it totally worth the extra care and caution required to keep the pattern tight and square.

I found it to be extremely helpful to set about one quarter of the room as perfectly as possible and let it cure over night.

The next morning I had a stable base to continue building upon and the tiling process became much easier.

Then finally, I was ready to grout!

The Grout Tutorial

Tools and Materials

• Fusion Pro Single Component colored grout


• Rubber Float


• Two-sided microfiber sponge


• Tile sponge


• Microfiber cloth


• Gloves


• Paper roll


• Tape


• Grout caulk to match your colored grout


• 2 buckets, for clean water rinsing of sponges

But of course there was a bit of prep for applying the new grout, as well. Be sure to clean out any mortar from between the tiles. I like to use a scraper or a putty knife.

Follow up with a good vacuuming to completely remove any mortar dust for both the floor and the walls.

For my tile projects, I prefer to use pre-mixed Fusion Pro Grout Single Component grout. It comes pre-mixed, which by this time in any tile project is a welcome relief. While it is different from traditional grout, it is superior in color consistency and stain resistance. The application process has a few subtle differences to be noted. These nuances, though, make it much easier and faster grout to use in my opinion.

Step 1

Assemble all materials needed. I use two buckets because I use two different sponges. This reduces the number of times you have to rinse out the buckets. Make sure to wear gloves during grouting.

Step 2

Begin by wetting your tile down thoroughly. This is extremely important to achieve proper spreading consistency of the grout. The moisture on the tile helps the grout flow smoothly into the joints and over the tiles.

Step 3

Using a rubber float, spread the grout, filling the spaces between the tiles thoroughly.

Step 4

Begin wiping the tiles free from grout, first using a two-sided sponge with the microfiber side.

Step 5

Then, flip the sponge over and wipe with the other side in a diagonal manner across the tiles.

Step 6

With the second tile sponge, continue the process of wiping off the grout. Remember to work diagonally.

Step 7

Wipe with damp microfiber cloth. Gently drag the cloth along the tile, removing any remaining film of grout.

Step 8

Empty the buckets and get fresh water after a few sections of application. Give the sponges and towel a good rinse at this time as well. Tiles with a honed or unglazed finish or larger grout lines will likely need the buckets to be emptied more often.

And just like that you have a beautifully grouted floor or wall!

A few more grouting tips to remember

• Work in small sections at a one time. The new grout begins to dry/set rather quickly. Once you feel a bit of resistance with the rubber float, it's probably time to begin the cleaning process.


• If you do find yourself with grout that is dried onto the tile, simply apply more grout to remove it. Easy as that!


• When working on larger projects, it can be helpful to clean the rubber float occasionally to remove any dried grout build-up. Consider doing this about every third time you empty and fill the clean water buckets.


• Grouting a vertical wall and defying gravity takes a bit of practice. I found it was easier to use smaller amounts of grout, about an egg size scoop and push the float up the wall for the first few passes.


• If you find you missed a spot in your grouting, the color consistency of this grout makes touch up easy and worry-free.


• Always use matching grout caulk in transitional planes, like corners of a shower or where wall tile and floor tile meet.

We couldn't be happier with how tile and colored grout transformed this space. Our daughter is not only happy to have her own space back, but is actually feeling pretty lucky and blessed to call this space her own. I may have to disturb her peace occasionally just to get another glimpse at this cool space!

A new tilting mirror and updated chrome lights were welcome additions too, but the seamless, floating, cedar shelf brings a great deal of warmth to the room.

You can check out the tutorial for how to build your own floating, seamless, cedar shelf on my blog.

Leslie Davis is the blogger behind Paper Daisy Design.

Check out more DIY projects and ideas here on The Home Depot Blog, and follow our Inspiring Tile pinboard on Pinterest.

The post Colored Grout and New Tile Create Fresh Bathroom Look appeared first on The Home Depot Blog.

Modern Bathroom Remodel with Floor to Ceiling Tile

When Emily Frame of Small Fry Blog was ready to update her bathroom, she used floor-to-ceiling tile and bright white grout to visually expand the small space.

Emily shows us how the new tile and bathroom fixtures to create a new, modern bathroom, look.

We moved into our fixer upper home nearly nine years ago, taking on one project at a time. The very first room in the house we renovated was our guest bath! Now so many years later, it was begging for an update! We decided on a modern bathroom renovation with the help of new grout and tiles.

I knew I wanted to do ceiling to floor tile, I had make the mistake with our first renovation having lots of horizontal lines which broke up the space and made it feel even smaller than before! Having that continuous line for your eye to follow creates the illusion that the space is that much bigger! Ready to see the transformation?

The Bathroom Before the Renovation

Above, you see the bathroom before the renovation. We had chair rails and lots of graphic color, but left all the hardware and fixtures from when it was built in 1998.

Laying the New Bathroom Floor

We ripped up the old tile, tore out the faux shower walls, took out the chair rails and started with a clean slate.

Once everything we didn't need was out, we started with laying the floor tiles.

We loved these MS Metro glazed porcelain tiles in Gris. It's a rich gray with lighter lines through it, so it's interesting, but not busy. We use these 1/16 inch spacers to keep everything uniform.

My husband is in construction, and we were both so impressed with this Fusion Pro Grout, which comes in dozens of colors. We chose Bright White grout for our bathroom remodel. Fusion Pro is pre-mixed and dries super quick, so our project moved so much quicker without the waiting time. It's also stain-resistant and anti-microbial so it lasts and lasts without that dingy look grout can take on.

The tile floors were done in a matter of an hour or so. Then we moved right onto the big project: the walls!

Tiling the Bathroom Walls

Before we started we needed to waterproof since it will be in contact with water often.

Red Gard to the rescue! It seals and protects and has never let us down.

We love this beautiful Delano Blanco tile. It has a mixture of glass, stone, and different shades of white and gray. It comes on mesh sheets, which makes laying it that much easier.

We used Fusion Pro grout in Bright White and just as suspected makes the bathroom look huge!

New Bathroom Fixtures

We created a custom wood vanity and set this Kohler Vox above-counter sink on top. There's a matching shelf below for storage for things like extra towels and all the hair products my boys could need. We paired the sink with this Pfister Venturi faucet.

To keep things affordable, we opted to leave the tub, but update the fixtures with Pfister Venturi shower head and faucet, which match the sink faucet.

It's amazing what that one upgrade did for the space!

We loved the amount of light our old bathroom fixture gave us, so we just swapped it out for a four-light bathroom bar light in brushed nickel that looked much like the old fixture. Also wanted things to feel fresh so we used Edison-style bulbs! This Moen Glenshire Mirror is perfect for our family because it tilts, so we can accommodate even the shortest of members.

Lastly, we also upgraded our house's original lighting and towel holders. Another super inexpensive way to make the bathroom look new and fresh. The Lyndall collection is our favorite, it's so sleek and modern and minimal. We used the 24 in. towel bar, towel ring and toilet paper holder.

We love that the bathroom is really neutral so we can change up the accessories to add color, texture or pattern.

Stay connected with Emily's upcoming projects on Small Fry Blog.Emily re-tiled her bathroom herself, but The Home Depot's Home Services and Installation Department can do it for you.

Follow our Inspiring Tile pinboard on Pinterest for more ideas and tips for bathroom remodels.

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Grout Color Has a Big Impact on Your Retiling Project

One of the easiest and most impactful ways to jazz up your space is with new tile. There are so many choices when it comes to bathroom tile, it can take a while to settle on what you want. Once that's settled, you still have an important decision to make that may seem less important. That's picking out the grout for your new tile. Not only does the grout hold the tile in place and provides extra waterproofing to your floor, the color of the grout can have a huge impact on the look of your tile and of your bathroom.

Grout Color

We took a classic tile— the Hudson Penny Round in Black by Merola— to pair with five different shades of grout to demonstrate how important the grout color is to your remodeling project.

We're using Fusion Pro grout, which provides plenty of options to get just the right look. It comes in 40 shades, from light to dark, and in warm and cool hues. We picked five shades to test— Bright White, Bone, Delorean Gray, Saddle Brown and Charcoal.

The Bright White grout is a big contrast to the dark tile, and emphasizes the pattern of the small circular tiles. That might be too much of a contrast for some situations, especially if it is to cover a large area. Also, if the tile is meant for a bathroom floor, the Bright White is going to show dirt very easily, so it might not be the best choice. In a tiled wall or backsplash, though, that high contrast could be breathtaking.

One the other end of the spectrum, the Charcoal grout tones down the tile pattern, and emphasizes the texture of the penny round tile. It will be very forgiving of dirt, too.

The intermediate hues aren't as dramatic as the Bright White or the Charcoal. They could be excellent choices, though, if you're using a multi-colored tile. You could choose a grout color that brings out one of the colors of the tile. Likewise, you could match the grout color to some other element in the room, say, the paint color or the color of a bathroom rug. Of course, you might not want to re-grout your bathroom if you paint the walls a new color, but if you have a color scheme you know you'll want to stay with long term, matching or complementing the room's color scheme in the grout can be very attractive.

Easy-to-Use Grout

Of course, the quality of the grout itself is an important consideration, especially if you're planning on grouting the tile yourself. One of the biggest things that DIY tilers struggle with is mixing the grout to just the right consistency. The grout can't be too runny, too thick or not mixed well. All of these things can have dire impact on the ease of your job as well as the durability long term.

Fusion Pro is a single component product which means that it comes pre-mixed (you don't even have to stir it!) It also doesn't need to be sealed, AND it has Microban in it to prohibit the growth of bacteria, mold and mildew. Add to that all the color options, Fusion Pro grout is a very good choice for your bathroom remodeling project.

Photos and tiling by Mandi Gubler of Vintage Revivals.

If you're thinking of taking on a retiling project, take a look at How to Retile a Bathroom for a Bright Look here on The Home Depot Blog. And check out more DIY projects, too.

Fusion Pro grout is made by Custom Building Products, which makes high quality grout, mortar, waterproofing and other products for tile, backsplash and flooring projects. Browse our huge selection of tile at The Home Depot.

The post Grout Color Has a Big Impact on Your Retiling Project appeared first on The Home Depot Blog.

How to Retile a Bathroom for a Bright New Look

New floor and shower tile will give your bathroom a totally new look. Don't worry if you don't know how to retile your bathroom, Nole Garey of Oh So Beautiful Paper will take you through the process, step by step.

Nole also knows how to combine design styles like a pro. You'll see that in her complete bathroom transformation. Nole honors the historic charm of her 1920s row home, while staying true to her modern taste.

With the help of new grout and tile, Nole's bathroom is brighter, more modern, and timeless.

How to Retile a Bathroom

We’ve been wanting to retile the only full bathroom in our 1920s row house pretty much since we first set foot in our home. Our neighborhood is filled with historic homes and lots of period details, so we wanted tile and finishings that honored the time period of our home while also incorporating details that reflected our own modern taste. Our previous bathroom featured dark slate tile around the tub and shower and turquoise walls, which made the entire bathroom feel dark and cramped despite the bright color.

For our bathroom renovation, we chose a gorgeous Grecian white octagon marble mesh-mounted mosaic tile for the floors and a classic white subway tile to go around around our shower and bathtub, with bright white grout throughout. The result is a gorgeous and timeless new bathroom that we love – and that suits the character of our home.

Here’s how we retiled the bathroom.

Tools and Materials

• White Premixed Thinset Mortar


• Fusion Pro Grout in Bright White


• White Subway Tile


• White Bullnose Subway Tile


• Grecian White Octagon Marble Mesh-Mounted Mosaic Tile


• 12 x 12 Carrara Marble Tile


• 4” Marble Threshold


• Brass Tile Edging


• ⅛” Tile Spacers


• 2” Hole Saw and Drill


• Laser Level


• China Marker


• ¼” x ¼” Notched Trowel


• Wet Saw


• Table Saw


• Rubber Grout Float


• Tile Sealer


• Microfiber cloth


• Bright White Caulk


• Rubber Gloves


• Tile Sponges


• Drop Cloth


• Painter’s Tape


• Tape Measure


• Tile Shims

Step 1

Lay out your subway tile pattern before you actually start tiling. This may sound like a given, but we ended up going with a slightly different pattern than we had originally intended after laying a few tiles out. In the end we chose an offset ⅓ pattern for our subway tile. So instead of centering the tile joint in the center of the tile below, our tile joints were offset at 2” from the tile below, with the offset pattern repeating on every other level of tile. Take your time on this part; measure and mark all your tile with a china marker before you start and you’ll save yourself a lot of headache down the road.

Step 2

Use your level (preferably a laser level) to draw a 3” line on the wall above the tub to give yourself a level starting line. Don’t assume that your tub or floor is level!

Our contractor gave us the tip of laying a ½” plywood board down to protect the tub, which has the added bonus of serving as a step stool when you need to tile the upper sections of the wall. We also recommend using painter’s tape to protect the top of your tub from thinset and grout, especially along the edges.

The edge of your tub probably has slight slope to it, to help drain water away from the walls. Make sure you align the tiles to your straight line and not to the curve of the tub.

Step 3

Apply a thin amount of thinset to the back of each tile and apply to the wall, starting in the middle of the longest wall and working your way out in each direction. The most important thing is to make sure that you have a level first row, so take your time and measure frequently!

Continue tiling all the way up the wall, using a wet saw to cut the tile when necessary and a hole saw to cut circular holes for the plumbing. Use ⅛” tile spacers to create an even grout line, and tile shims when needed to maintain the levelness of the tile line.

Use damp sponges to wipe away any excess thinset before it dries. And change your water frequently! Simple wooden shims are great for scraping out any extra thinset from between the tiles. You want those spaces to be as clean as possible so you can seal them up with grout later.

Step 4

We used bullnose tile to cover the corners around the tub walls, then tiled the outer edge of the tub and shower alcove using a straight set tile pattern. Those little wall sections are only about 6” wide, so it didn’t make sense to try an offset pattern there. I was worried about losing the offset pattern there, but the straight set pattern actually makes the tiny wall feel wider.

Step 5

When you retile a bathroom, you'll want to lay the marble mosaic tile out ahead of time to figure out how all of the sections would fit together. Our house was built in the 1920s and doesn’t have a single 90 degree angle anywhere in sight, which means that our bathroom door and tub are angled slightly towards each other. We chose to align the floor tile with the door – as the visual and physical point of entry – rather than the tub, which meant that we started the floor tile right at the threshold and worked our way out towards the rear wall.

Step 6

We began with a strip of brass tile edging to mark the transition between the marble mosaic tile and the marble threshold. This brass edging is so slim and delicate, but it’s probably my favorite detail from the entire bathroom and it creates a beautiful and clean line between the threshold and floor tile.

Luckily, the brass tile edging couldn’t be easier to install. Just trim the brass tile edging to your desired length using a table saw. The brass tile edging comes in different heights, so just make sure you purchase a height that matches the thickness of your floor tile.

Apply a thick layer of thinset to your waterproof floor board (we used Wedi board), and firmly press the marble mosaic tile and brass tile edging into the thinset at the same time. Continue tiling around the room. You’ll want to let all the thinset dry for 24 hours before you start grouting.

Step 7

We used Fusion Pro grout, which doesn’t require sealing, but if you’re planning to use natural stone tile you’ll definitely want to seal the tile before grouting. We sealed both the marble tile that we used in our shower niches and the marble octagon mosaic floor tile prior to grouting.

Step 8

Apply grout according to the manufacturer’s instructions. We chose Fusion Pro grout in Bright White for our entire bathroom. Apply the grout in small sections, approximately 20 square feet at a time. Spread the grout with a rubber grout float to fill in all the spaces, then hold the float at a 45-degree angle to scrape up any excess.

You’ll want to work in small sections, stopping every 3-4 minutes to wipe away excess grout and shape the grout joints with a damp sponge, again changing your water frequently.

Then finish by using a microfiber cloth to wipe away excess residue. Allow 24 hours for the grout to dry completely, then caulk around the tub, the corners of the tub alcove, and any places where tile meets the wall or ceiling.

Using Colored Grout

I had originally planned to use a gray grout for the shower alcove, but once we got all the tile up on the wall I realized that a gray grout would make our already small bathroom feel even smaller. The Bright White grout helped brighten the entire space and make it feel nice and open!

We ended up using two one-gallon buckets of grout for the entire bathroom, and I was so happy to find that there wasn’t any color variation between the two grout buckets. And the best part is that Fusion Pro grout is a proprietary formula that is stain resistant, easy to clean, and never requires sealing. Look how great the tile looks with what bright white grout!

The bathroom layout didn’t change at all; the tub, toilet, and sink are all in the exact same spot as they were before. Even though it’s our master bathroom (and the only full bathroom in the house), it’s a fairly small room and we decided that the existing layout made the most sense for the space. But it’s amazing how a simple change in materials can make a huge difference even with the same layout!

The lighter tile and bright white grout make the entire space feel brighter and bigger, which is huge for a room that receives zero natural light. Bathroom renovations are a lot of work, but the result is a timeless and elegant bathroom that we’ll enjoy for years to come!

Nole Garey is the editor of Oh So Beautiful Paper. She lives with her husband and two young daughters in the Capitol Hill neighborhood in Washington, DC.

Check out more DIY projects and ideas here on The Home Depot Blog, and follow our Inspiring Tile pinboard on Pinterest.

The post How to Retile a Bathroom for a Bright New Look appeared first on The Home Depot Blog.

DIY Wall-Mounted Book Sling

A book sling is an attractive way to organize and store books, especially in a child’s room. This DIY book sling is easy to make; all you need is a double towel bar in your favorite finish and any fabric of your choice.

We chose the Delta Silverton 24” Double Towel Bar because of the shiny chrome finish and the cute circular design on the post. We found these great Martha Stewart curtains at The Home Depot and loved their fun, yet timeless pattern.

This quick and easy sewing project will bring a nice organization solution to any room. At the end of this tutorial, we'll show you how this book sling can also become a shoe sling to keep footwear organized and off the floor.

Just follow the step-by-step instructions.

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How to Make a Wall-Mounted Book Sling

Materials for Wall-Mounted Book Sling

• Delta Silverton 24” Double Towel Bar
• Martha Stewart Living River Mist Moroccan Geo Back Tab Curtain
• Matching Thread

Tools:

• Iron
• Scissors
• Ruler or measuring tape
• Straight pins
• Sewing machine
• Drill
• Phillips-head screwdriver
• Level
• Pencil

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Step 1: Wash, Dry and Iron the Fabric

Tip: Before any sewing project, always wash and dry fabric to ensure that shrinking doesn’t happen later down the road. Ironing keeps the fabric crisp for easier pinning and sewing.

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Step 2: Cut the Fabric

The towel bar is 24 in. long, therefore the fabric length needs to be 24 in. to match. However, based on the size of books needed to be held, cut the depth to properly hold. For example, a 5 in. book would need a 4 in. depth.

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Step 3: Stitch the Fabric

Tip: Change your sewing machine setting to zig-zag, and zig-zag the edge of the fabric. This will help prevent fabric from fraying along the edges while assembling and will make hemming a lot easier.

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Step 4: Pin the Fabric

Fold the fabric in half (patterned sides together) to create a 24 x 21-in. rectangle, and pin the two sides together in 1 to 1½-in. intervals. Leave a 5-in. opening on one of the short sides (so the fabric can be turned patterned sides out).

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Step 5: Sew the Sling

Sew the pinned edges together and remember to leave unpinned edges open. Then pull the fabric inside-out, and fold it in raw edges to line up with the sewn edges.

Pin the edges together and iron them.

Hand sew the edges together.

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Step 6: Add Pockets

The final sewing step is to make pockets for the towel bars to slip into.

For this, you will need to fold over each long edge by 2 in. Secure with pins, iron and sew a ¼-in. seam.

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Step 7: Install the Towel Bar

Determine where you want to install your towel bar.

Most towel bars come with a step-by-step installation template. Use this for easy installation. Usually you will just need a pencil, a drill, a screwdriver and a level. It can be done in minutes.

Before mounting the second post, be sure to slip the book sling onto the bars.

Put the bars into the second post and hang the post on the wall.

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Wall-Mounted Shoe Sling

This wall-mounted sling can be used to hold other items, such as shoes.

We have more DIY projects here on The Home Depot Blog. Follow our Easy DIY Projects board on Pinterest, too, for more DIY tutorials and ideas.

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